Wednesday, July 2, 2014

5 best things to do in Tallinn

I love Tallinn. It was my favourite city of the Baltic capitals, but in order to enjoy it, you have to know how to do it right. During the day, the Old Town can seem so touristy, so tacky, so fake, with promoters in medieval costumes tempting people into their themed restaurant, and endless souvenir shops lining the streets. But in the quiet evenings, when most tourists have hopped back on their Cruise ships is when you see the real beauty of the Old Town, and it truly is a beautiful, quaint medieval city you'll instantly fall in love with. Getting lost will never a bad thing.

Of course, there's also so much more to the city than the tiny historic centre - and it's well worth the extra ten minute walk to leave the medieval town walls to see the Moscow district and the modern city centre, especially to escape the crowded Old Town  in the day.

So from my 3-night stay (which is only almost enough), I present to you my 5 favourite things to do in Tallinn:


1. Watch the sunset. Evening is certainly the best time to explore the Old Town, and I have never been so happy to get lost. Wander through the old windy streets and up the hill to watch the sunset from the city's lookout near the Government buildings, and you'll instantly fall in love with the view of the Old Town's red roofs stretching out to the open sea. 

View from the city lookout

2. Go shopping in a Russian flea market. Only a few minutes walking through the park from the old town, you enter Kalamaja, the 'Russian' district. Balti Jaam market is famous for being able to buy anything - I saw everything from gravestones to groceries, loose socks to saucepan lids. There was one amazing little antique shop filled to the brim with soviet memorabilia - USSR flags, pistols, gas masks and a large stack of old soldier's passports among other things! I was desperate to buy something, but very few of the stall holders spoke english, and I didn't have the confidence to barter, although I did manage to nab a nice belt for only 50c.



3. Explore a soviet submarine. If you're into your boats, the military or submarines, be sure to check out Seaplane Harbour. This massive concrete hangar, previously used for storing seaplanes (as the name would suggest) has now been turned into a museum full of ice-yachts, canoes and boats, military equipment and a 1930s Estonian submarine. I didn't expect to enjoy it as much as I did, but I loved walking around the submarine - pretty cool! The museum is well designed, with several interactive exhibits, including a flight simulator,  and a card you can scan at interesting exhibits that will send the displayed information, along with further details to your email.

Submarine Lembit
Inside the submarine


4. Check out some modern Estonian design. One of my favourite shops was Tali, hidden away just off the Town square. This shop was filled with items from local Estonian designers, with witty notebooks, quirky jewellery and even handbags made of old fire hoses, all filling this reasonably priced, modern design shop. I bought this wonderful brooch with a touch of the famous amber (although it's not real) as my Tallinn souvenir! The Telliskivi complex a twenty minute walk from the old town is also a great cluster of small local businesses with some great Estonian design items to buy. 

Brooch by Bio:Logical:Clock
5. Have real hot chocolate at Chocolaterie de Pierre. Exploring the streets near St Catherine's Passage, I had the fortune to stumble across little Master's Courtyard. Although I had just eaten lunch, the atmosphere of couples and friends having chocolate treats in the courtyard seemed so cosy and welcoming and I vowed to come back later the afternoon. That evening, it was a little chilly so I decided to sit inside. This was just as nice as the outdoor atmosphere during the day. The velvet, marble and old fashioned furnishings with comfy chairs made the cafe dark and luxurious. The hot chocolate I ordered had a large swirl of real melted chocolate inside and it was heavenly. Go during the day for the outside, the evening for the inside, anytime for the chocolate. 

Chocolaterie de Pierre

Bonus: Something I really wanted to do was visit Naissar Island, a small island off Tallinn's coast which had been used as a military base during soviet rule with a large naval mine factory. It's now a nature reserve with over 10 abandoned Soviet military fortresses, as well as having a museum, lots of lighthouses, a railway and a lot of the island being beautifully untouched. Tallinn Cruises run a day trip to the Island, but unfortunately I never found the boat at the port so I missed the trip. If anyone has been, I would love to know what it was like!

Feel free to comment below with any questions or suggestions!